History of Gadwal Cotton Sarees
Indian culture takes immense pride in handwoven fabrics that carry historical stories in every weave. A handwoven saree speaks volumes about Indian
handloom heritage and tradition when worn and is a symbol of the Indian identity.
Gadwal – The History and Origin
The quintessential Kanjivaram is an affair of love for the women of India. The timeless Kanjivaram silk saree got its name from the temple city of Kanchipuram in
Tamil Nadu, India. Kanjivaram silk sarees have their origins in Hindu mythology. The Kanchi Silk Weaver is believed to be a descendant of Sage Markanda, the
Gods’ Master Weaver. The glorious Kanjivaram weave has a history of 400 years and it is said that the two large weaving communities Devangas and Saligars
from Andhra Pradesh relocated to Kanchipuram to weave Kanjivaram sarees. It is their weaving skills with which they weaved enchanting designs of temples
and mythological scriptures they saw in the city of Kanchipuram. Soon after Kanjivaram sarees became famous they were worn by the royals on important
occasions and by brides at their weddings.
The Weave
The vintage weaves of Kanjivaram silk sarees are made from heavy and pure mulberry silk that is dyed in vibrant colours and dipped in rice water and sundried to make it thick and stiff before weaving them into a saree. The silk thread is intertwined with fine silver wire and pure gold thread that gives the Zari border
its distinctive sheen and strength. The significance of the Kanjivaram silk saree lies in its unique weave, called the korvai weave.
Typically, three shuttles are used to weave a Kanchipuram sari. A weaving frame with 240 holes in the warp and 60 holes in the weft is used to weave this 6-
yards wonder which makes it extremely strong. Another interesting fact about weaving a Kanjivaram silk saree which makes it different from other silk sarees is
that the border and the body is weaved separately and then interlocked. The joint weave is so strong that even if the saree tears the border will not detach. The
mundhi (part of the saree that falls over the shoulder) if has to be in a different shade, is woven separately and is attached using a zigzag stitch. A kanjivaram
saree can be up to 2 kg heavy.
Design and Varieties
Kanjivaram sarees are distinguished by the broad borders that are in contrasting colours to the body of the saree. The designs on a kanjivaram saree are
usually inspired by scriptures from the temples of Kanchipuram and South India which include temples, stripes, checks, florals, animals, the sun, and the moon.
They also have motifs and patterns that depict mythological stories that are minutely detailed adding charm to their beauty.
There are different varieties of Kanjivaram sarees. Initially, they were woven in a length of 9 yards, which now is reduced to 6 yards for practical reasons. The Zari
work made of gold and silver is replaced with metal and copper to make it cost-effective and affordable for everyone. The different types of Kanjivaram include
Thread Brocade Kanjivaram, Pattupettu Kanjivaram, Korvai Kanjivaram, Without Border Kanjivaram, Checked Kanjivaram, Traditional Kanjivaram, Zari Brocade
Kanjivaram, and the Classic Kanjivaram.
Gadwal sarees come in a range of beautiful shades and hues that are a treat to the eyes.
Geographical Indication
The government of Tamil Nadu applied and got Kanchipuram recognized as a Geographical Indication from the Government of India in the year 2006.
Gadwal – A Legacy
How many times have you been mesmerized by seeing a woman beautifully gracing a Kanjivaram? The Kanjivaram silk sarees, till today, are an essential part
of a woman’s wardrobe and are an integral part of divine occasions. In India gold is considered a symbol of purity, wealth, and power, and the amalgamation of
silk with gold in the weaving of a Kanjivaram saree makes it an undisputable legacy. It is not just for the love of silk sarees but the tales of the hands of weavers
who put in labor and craftmanship and carry the history and tradition so beautifully for centuries that makes Kanjivaram a possession to behold.
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